Omnibus Diaries III / Diarios de Omnibus III

Chile is a country of constant change. The ground always moves here, shifting slightly throughout the day. Slowly and imperceptibly. At times, though, it shakes with such seismic fury that the country and its people come tumbling down.

Military dictators rise in violent coup d´etats and then gradually fade away… but never disappear entirely.

The most arid desert in the world gives way to a fertile central valley and flows south to the land of lakes, which eventually meanders around fjords and glaciers, at the bottom of the world.

And, in Santiago, a city I left behind five years ago, change is the only constant.

Tall buildings now stand where they did not before, defying the shaky ground beneath them. Business executives circulate among the city´s newest channels, chasing dreams and dollars. A few city plazas have disappeared; a few more shopping malls have been erected.

Even past the walls of the Larrain household—which had seemed so timeless, so cordoned off from change—things were different. My brothers are older now; in fact, I didn´t even recognize a few of them. No feelings were hurt. A new dog now keeps guard at the main gate, and an already numerous family has grown again, almost by the dozen.

Most importantly, though, coming back to Chile and the Larrain family I realize just how much I´ve changed since I was here last. I finally feel at home in this country, which, as Chileans will tell you, is no country for “debiles de caracter,” or the weak of character. I finally see that Chile and I even have a lot in common: We both have a strong, spiny backbone—which throws life out of joint from time to time—and a lovely interior. And amid all this change and transition—as Chile and I move in tandem—I realize that I have finally found a kind of peace at the precipice. From these staggering heights, I can finally see with clarity how far I´ve come and the road that lay ahead.

The Larrain household. In a changing world, the generosity and spirit of this family remains unchanged. Fittingly, the sign above the door reads: Pax, or peace.

These stairs lead to my room, affectionately known as la pieza de Becky, or "Becky´s room."

One of my adopted brothers, Jose Antonio (far left), some other friends, and I enjoy Santiago´s nightlife.

One of my favorite Aquarians, María Jose, and her daughter Martina. It took us meeting at Hiram five years ago to finally meet up inValparaiso.
Valparaiso,

de mis sueños, de mis versos, de mis suspiros.